Pellerin: A safe, crack-free sidewalk is as hard to find as a Labubu toy

In a large commercial kitchen in Halifax’s north end, chef Shane Gallagher sprinkled a garnish of parmesan, garlic, parsley and breadcrumbs onto the creamy broccoli pasta his team had just plated. It was a simple dish, but Mr. Gallagher – who’s worked at some of the city’s best restaurants, including Bar Kismet and Drift – added some cheffy touches: The breadcrumbs were processed from fluffy, olive-oil-rich slabs of focaccia, and the sauce’s flavour was punched up with the sweet funkiness of puréed garlic confit. This was lost on many diners. Some took a few bites before throwing...